The art of fragrance

a brief history of Italian aromas

Apr 07, 2024

Benvenuti! Welcome! Thank you for your generosity in supporting my work in so many ways: by becoming paid subscribers, by sharing your cooking experiences here and my stories with others, with your heart-warming praise. I love your company, thank you for being here ♡!

It might come as a surprise, but for many centuries the Italian cuisine was founded on the liberal use of sauce and spices.

Sixteen centuries of spices

In the European history, until the 19th century, there is very scant record of food consumed by the common people. In contrast, it is well documented that, since ancient times, exotic and expensive spices have been much appreciated by the upper strata of society .

De Re coquinaria of Apicius, one of the earliest recipe collection — dating probably back to the 4th century C.E. —, expounds the incorporation of spices in culinary practices. The unknown author, named Apicius, enumerates approximately 180 spices, aromatics, and herbs, both renowned and obscure.

Culinary herbs from the Vienna version of the Tacuinum Sanitatis, an 11th century medical treatise: (A) sage ; (B) marjoram ; (C) dill (D) saffron

Additionally, Apicius provides a catalog of essential aromatics that no [wealthy] household should have been without, including saffron, cloves, poppy seeds, coriander, cumin, anise, ginger, and pepper.

The ancient Romans built Horrea, huge public warehouses designated for the preservation of goods, among which the Horrea Piperitaria were designated for large-volume spice trade.

The culinary practices, known from the ancient Romans, did not substantially change during the Middle Ages and well into the early Modern Era. Food tasted sweet and savory at the same time, was accompanied by sour sauces and heavily accented by exotic spices. One could imagine the resulting flavors similar to the Middle Eastern or North African foods.

gray ceramic mortar and pestle — Photo by Katherine Hanlon on Unsplash

Don’t believe the myth about sauces, herbs, and spices used to hide spoilage, there is no evidence for such use. On the contrary, until the 17th-18th century, the use of spices to accompany every dish was a sign of distinction.

In complete contrast with our contemporary cuisine, the cook was a master of transformation, creating flavors, shapes, and textures which were completely different from of the original ingredients.

“Still life with peacock pie” by Flemish painter Pieter Claesz, 1627

Starting from the High Middle Age, pies became incredibly popular. If you were part of the nobility of the times, you would have often experienced pies like the one represented in the splendid still-life above.

A perfect example of the concept of transformative cuisine, pies were typically made with many layers of sweet and savory ingredients, various types of meat each in its own sauce, pasta, dates, nuts, eggs, and vegetables.

Nothing could be further from the way we eat today, except a few dishes. For example, the fabulous sartù from Naples has survived the test of time, and a for a good reason, it’s fantastic!

Upgrade to paid

Back to nature

The shift to a renewed appreciation of the flavor of food in its natural state becomes apparent in the 17th century, at the court of France. As the exotic spices became less expensive and more widely available, the elite started to seek out alternative markers of distinction.

The royals and the nobility began to appreciate native ingredients and aromas such as fresh herbs, mushrooms, capers, anchovies. Spicy sauces slowly disappeared in favor of salads, simply dressed with salt, oil, and vinegar.

Panzanella, a rustic bread and tomato salad from Central Italy (recipe)

Interestingly, it takes almost another century for the Italians to follow suit. With the Age of Enlightenment, cooks start to advocate a light and delicate cuisine and intellectuals become interested in healthy eating and vegetarianism. Slowly, the grandeur of the past is abandoned in favor of informality and intimacy, paving the way to a modern way of eating.

Sharing my Rome kitchen with lovely strangers is also very modern!

How to work with Italian aromas

Modern Italian food focuses on a sense of purity of ingredients that is probably unprecedented in Italian history. The cook is expected to choose ingredients that complement and enhance each other rather than overpowering them with a blanket of sauce, seasonings and/or spices. Here are some tips to preserve and enhance the aromatic profile in your Italian dishes:

Cover it

Are you covering your soups, stews, and pasta sauces with a lid? Any sauce that cooks more than a few minutes will be much more aromatic if you simmer it over low heat and keep it covered. This way, the aromas condense on the lid and fall back in the sauce rather than vaporizing in the air. A simple tomato sauce (marinara in the US), puttanesca, ragù, stewed vegetables are all examples of pasta sauces that cook beautifully with the lid on.

in my kitchen there is almost always a pan with the lid on!

Wrap it

All herbs, fruit and vegetables, especially if they have tender leaves, will start to lose aroma as soon as they are picked. There is no point in buying a bunch of parsley or arugula and forget it in the fridge, it will be ruined and tasteless quite quickly. Buy herbs and salads in small amounts, wrap them in slightly damp kitchen paper, and store them individually in a bag for the shortest possible time. Basil and parsley also keep well in water, but for no more than a day.

closeup photo of green leafed plant — Photo by pintando la luz on Unsplash

Don’t chop it yet!

The moment you cut, chop or peel a plant, its aromatic substances start to evaporate. Non-woody herbs are especially delicate. To trap their aroma in your food, chop them very few minutes before adding them to your recipe and serve immediately. In the (very old) photo from my kitchen above, you can see the herbs ready to be chopped as soon as everything else is almost ready. Try these delicious tagliolini with fava beans, ricotta and almond pesto. Do make sure to blend the basil and almonds when the pasta is almost cooked. It’s a matter of planning!

What to cook this month

Did you see my recipe for lasagna rosettes on the blog? Delicate rolls of pasta sheets filled with ricotta, young cheese and baked with a touch of cream then served with a light drizzle of raw honey. It’s to die for!