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Snow
In the early 1990s, I lived a never ending year and a half in Vienna. The first winter was so cold, my heart was frozen. I lived in the city, but I worked at a UN experimental station located 40 km (ca. 25 mi) out of town. Most of the bus trip to get to the office crossed a tundra-like plain covered in deep snow. Large deer clustered in the fields, sinking deep in the frigid whiteness.
Savannah
The next spring, I was delighted to have the opportunity to escape to sunny Zimbabwe for field work. After a stop-over in Harare, I was headed to a far away experimental station in the Mana Pools National Park, near the border with Zambia. I packed the essentials: boots, mesh hat, a moka pot and a few packets of espresso powder.
I don’t remember the long trip on a jeep across the savannah. However, I do remember having to stop by a butcher shop to buy enough meat for two weeks and at a supermarket in the middle of nowhere to stock on milk, drinks and other commodities.
On arrival, we found a small herd of elephants intent to strip a huge baobab tree of its bark. Around us, an expanse of dried grass scattered with lonely trees.
We lived in small cottages built on elevated terrain to discourage the wild animals from stomping us to death at every encounter. Elephants, buffalos, baboons roamed free. They were hungry and thirsty because of the long drought that had affected the area for months.
We had a central kitchen run by an adorable local chef. He would make us breakfast including espresso made in my moka pot which he found most entertaining.
On our first morning, I was peeling an orange when a huge elephant galloped just in front of us. As I jumped inside in a matter of seconds, I understood why it was not allowed to lock any door. Ruurd, always the big adventurer, could not stop laughing at my unexpected speed.
The place was run in a shockingly colonial way. All scientists were white, all personnel were local, dressed in khaki uniforms and (obviously) black. A senior researcher — back from his field trip — used to walk by the kitchen and snap his fingers while pronouncing a single word: “Tea”. Minutes later, the adorable chef would be running to this man’s cottage with a tray of steaming tea and toast.
I cringed, in disbelief.
Roaring
Every morning I left with a team of 4-5 man to search for an elusive species of natural enemies of the tsetse flies. For lunch, we would cook some of our 2-week provisions. For dinner, all scientists would gather by the kitchen and have dinner under a magnificent starry sky.
The food was simple but so tasty. Locally grown, and unaffected by intensive agriculture or long storage, it was almost primeval in the intensity of its flavor.
One night, in honor of me being Italian, the chef produced macaroni and cheese baked with the most divine broccoli. We had hardly tucked in, when three roaring lions walked across the cottages on their way to the water. We did not hear them coming, nor smell them, until they passed us and disappeared into the night.
For a brief moment, time stopped. We — there must have been 7-8 of us — sat frozen around the table. Then, carefully, we shared our relief and the only thought you have in a situation like that: they did not want us.
What’s up
I am still looking for an apartment with a large kitchen and better access for Ruurd. Last week I put in an offer for a good candidate, please wish me luck!
On an entirely different subject, I must apologize for the mishap that happened when I turned on paid subscriptions last month. I finally figured out that several paid accounts have been refused by the banks issuing the cards used for payment. If you cannot access the newsletters for paid subscribers, please contact me and I will let you know your account’s situation, thank you so much!
What to cook this month
If you need ideas for Sunday meals, try the vegetarian cannelloni I just published on my website (scroll to the “recipes in season”), and please join the subscriber’s chat to report your experience or just a photo, thanks!
For weekdays, soup is de rigueur! and is there anything better than a comforting, nutritious soup to fend the cold and gray days of winter? I suggest prepping a few basic ingredients to freeze so you can whip up a great meal with no effort when tired or in a hurry.
Today I am roasting squash, while soaking 500 g (about 1 lb) cannellini beans and making a light chicken broth with organic chicken wings, celery, onion, tomato, and carrots.
The beans will be cooked in a similar aromatic broth tomorrow morning.
I will have enough to make the queen of Italian winter soups, pasta e fagioli and to freeze for more soups and salads.
The chicken broth will be used for risotto but also to make one of my favorite quick winter dinners: fresh pasta in brodo, meaning pasta cooked in a broth a simply sprinkled with Parmigiano.
The squash will be used for all manners of risotto and pasta but also for this fabulous gold soup.
How to make better soups
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