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Summer in the city
Summer has come to Rome with all its might. It’s hot, humid, chaotic, but also mellow in a way that only Rome can be. Beyond the tourist circus of the city center, life runs as usual.
What I love of Rome is that people spend a lot of time outside. The urge for the late afternoon stroll is irresistible, even more so in summer. By 6 pm, virtually everybody needs to find a reason to go out for a drink, a gelato, or just to hang around in a park.
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The atmosphere is so special that I time my non-urgent errands with everybody else. On my way back I often meet some neighbors, we chat outside the concierge office, exchange news, complain about the weather (is it ever good?) and proceed to prepare our dinner.
Crema
For me there is no better time than summer for dessert. Our gorgeous market is heaving with splendid fruit, fresh, juicy, sweet.
Fresh fruit is a worthy everyday dessert in its own right. However, making an easy dessert when so many beautiful ingredients are available is a special pleasure. All you need is to whip up a custard — “crema” in Italian — and top it or mix it with your bounty from the market.
In Italy, custard is very much appreciated — especially if homemade — and it’s fundamental to a number of popular desserts. Tiramisù, gelato, pannacotta, torta di frutta, diplomatico are just a few examples of a multitude of recipes that never fail to delight. If you look at the table above, popular Italian custard-based desserts share the same basic ingredients and similar, simple techniques.
Playing with crema and fruit
I must tell you a secret: I never cook the same meal twice in a row. I hardly ever have the same menu for 2 cooking classes in a row. Likewise, I’m known to change the menu on the very morning of a cooking class, just because the weather is different from expected, or I have an ingredient which is just perfect right then.
How has this to do with dessert?
Well, if you keep your larder stocked with common ingredients, the choice of any menu item depends on the fresh ingredients and your creativity. Once you know a handful of simple techniques (check my recipes!), you can create all sorts of desserts and pair them with the rest of your meal and the mood of the day.
How to create by season
Crema diplomatica
Strawberries are at the end of season here in Italy, but just coming up where the weather is still cool. The fresh ones have a bright green crown of tiny leaves on the stem side, they are deep red inside and juicy. Nice strawberry are a rare event in the year, use them quickly to enjoy their true flavor or soak them overnight in white wine, prosecco or vinsanto plus lemon juice and a dash of sugar.
Crema diplomatica, also known as Italian Chantilly, is a concoction of pastry cream and whipped cream. This crema pairs beautifully with in-season strawberries. It’s feather-light and perfect for a party, as a small quantity of ingredients makes you a large tub of your “crema of the day”.
Later in the season, you can serve the crema diplomatica with poached pears, another quite divine combination.
Pannacotta
Melons are reliable friends throughout summer, their season is long, and it’s not too difficult to tell if a melon is good. The ones that are ripe turn from mostly green to pale cream color and have a faint, but decidedly sweet smell. If the smell is slightly alcoholic, they are overripe.
If you have taken part in one of my cooking classes, you know that I love pannacotta which is an eggless custard set with gelatin instead of eggs. The recipe lends itself to so many variations, which you will hardly ever find in a restaurant. Take the opportunity to create! Try my classic pannacotta al melone or use other soft fruit like peach, apricot, mango or (seedless) berries of your choice.
Tiramisù
Tiramisù is based on a custard (crema di mascarpone) obtained by mixing zabaione, whipped cream and mascarpone cheese. You will probably find a million recipes that include other ingredients. However, without these essential elements, you will never obtain a dessert that actually tastes like tiramisù.
In Italy, the best figs are available in late summer. Of all the fruit-based tiramisù versions, the one with figs is probably the most intense and luxurious, especially if you have access to truly fresh figs. Keep this recipe for August!
Gelato
One of the best piece of equipment I own is a basic ice cream maker. It is a budget-friendly model that uses a pre-frozen, coolant-lined canister to cool the ice cream base, removing the need for salt, ice, or an expensive compressor.
And here is my secret:
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